Sunday, December 28th, 2008
by: Daniel Beatty, DVM
Is your dog being over vaccinated and your vet is not following the new guidelines? How many of you are still getting annual “shots” for your dog? Has your vet told you that there is a “new” protocol for vaccinating your dog? I say “new” loosely because the guidelines have been around for over 5 years now! That is beside the point, lets just go with the new guidelines given out by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) last year in 2006.
First, a bit of information about the vaccination of your dog. The most common other vaccination given to your dog besides rabies is a 5 or a 6 in one shot. Meaning there are 5 or 6 different types of diseases your dog is being vaccinated for in one shot. The common acronym for this vaccine is DHLPP and sometimes added in there is a C. The letters each stand for a different disease – D=Distemper, H=Hepatitis (also known as Adenovirus), L=Leptospirosis, P=Parvo, P=Parainfluenza, and C=Corona.
For the new guidelines lets take the three core vaccines, the three that your dog should be vaccinated for Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis (Adenovirus). After your dog has been initially vaccinated for these three core diseases usually as a puppy and then a year later with a booster, your dog has prolonged immunity against those diseases. What do I mean by prolonged immunity, well the research shows, your dog is immune for 6 to 9 years! That’s correct! The research done by reputable immunologists, such as Dr. Ronald Schultz, shows that after the initial puppy vaccination and a one year booster many dogs are protected for the majority of their life. WIth this new research AAHA developed some new guidelines. Their suggestion or guidelines, after puppy vaccination and the yearly booster is that the three core vaccines, only need to be boostered every three years. So according to the AAHA guidelines, instead of annual revaccination, your dog really only needs to be revaccinated every three years.
In fact, did you know, annual vaccination of your dog can cause severe diseases. Over-vaccination has been linked to cancer, allergies, and other auto-immune diseases such as Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia. More research needs to be done but many of the recent studies show these links exist. In fact, in cats, over-vaccination has been proven to cause sarcomas, a very severe cancer.
So now the question becomes, if the vaccines have been shown to produce immunity that lasts quite a bit longer than what was originally thought and annual vaccination might be the cause of certain allergies and other immune system diseases including cancer, then why has my vet not told me about this? Unfortunately, the answer is money, if not money then it is pure ignorance on your vet’s part. Yes ignorance, as in not current in their education or just an unwillingness to change because the old way is the way things have always been done. Money is the other answer and no it is not because veterinarians are greedy, but rather in many veterinary offices, 33% of the annual income comes from vaccinations. This is a large percentage of income that with the new guidelines will be cut. Veterinarians are not prepared for that kind of an income cut. Many could go out of business. Many clinics do not have the management skills or their other services are not priced correctly to compensate for that kind of an income loss. So changing to the new vaccination guidelines although would benefit your animals health can be a tough business decision for the owner of the veterinary clinic. Just remember though you have a responsibility as a pet owner for the health and well being of your pet and less vaccinations IS better for your pet, regardless of the business problems that some clinics may have going to the new guidelines.
So if your veterinarian is still requesting annual vaccinations, ask why. Be informed, make the right decisions, choose to protect the health of your dog by learning what your veterinarian is giving to your dog and why – specifically why, not just because he is the vet and it is to better the health of your dog. Ask questions, be dangerous!
About The Author
Daniel Beatty, DVM
Be dangerous to your veterinarian, be informed, make intelligent decisions based on knowledge from credible sources. You can find more information about the topic of dog health care at Dr. Dan’s site http://www.evetclinic.com or his blog http://healthyasadog.com
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Posted in Health & Fitness | 1 Comment »
Friday, December 5th, 2008
by: Terry King
No Dog training means more to most new puppy owners than that first important lesson: Not in the House!
Teaching your Dog to go to the toilet outside the home, not in it, usually starts between six and eight weeks of age. Dogs as young as four weeks old, have been started on the house training, but at such a young age, a puppy is unlikely to have enough muscle control.
Like any dog training, the trainer’s patience is as important as the dog’s temperament. ‘Sit’, ’stay’ and other behaviours can often be learned in a few days. ‘Potty’ training can take weeks – sometimes as short as two, often a month or more.
As with other learned behaviours, you should look for signs of the impending action, then enforce and direct them with a voice command followed by praise. In this case the technique works to the trainer’s advantage, since all dogs will naturally go to the toilet. The trick is to get them to do it when and where you want!
Look for signs such as circling or squatting, then pick up the pup, say ‘outside’ and hurry outside. The puppy may circle some more, but will often squat immediately. As it begins, say “quickly” (or some other phrase) in a clear, firm (but not angry) voice. Wait until the puppy finished and give lots of praise.
You won’t always be able to catch the puppy about to begin, but don’t become angry or impatient when the dog goes to the toilet indoors. It takes time for the dog to learn to tell you it’s time to ‘go outside’. It also takes time for the muscles needed to control bladder and bowels to develop.
Young dogs need to go to the toilet every 2-3 hours, on average. If you haven’t spotted evacuation behaviour within that time, take the dog outside anyway. Issue the command ‘quickly” and wait. At first, usually, the dog will have no clue what you want.
Again, even when outside, it helps to wait and watch for the desired behaviour then issue the command. That helps the dog associate the command with the behaviour. If the dog hasn’t gone after a few minutes and a few ‘quickly’ commands, take it back inside for an hour. Of course, if you spot the pre-toilet behaviour in less time, go outside again immediately.
Dogs have a surprising ability to quickly learn what their ‘alpha’ (the leader of the pack) wants. This is almost always accomplished by associating a verbal command with behaviour, followed by praise. Punishment is usually counter-productive, and nowhere more so than in toilet training. Never rub a dog’s nose in waste.
Paper and/or crate training is preferred by some. A pup can be trained to go on a newspaper, or on one of the chemically treated puppy pads designed for the purpose. Some small breeds that live all day in the home may not need to go outside at all.
The technique has a couple of down sides however. Unlike cats, dogs will rarely go in a perfumed litter box. Newspapers (even with the top layer removed after the dog goes) will eventually create an unpleasant smell in the house.
Also, long before the odour becomes unattractive to humans, dogs can smell their own distinctive aroma. They don’t find it unattractive – quite the opposite. And that’s the problem.
Dogs that are paper trained will often prefer to eliminate indoors. Sometimes they’ll miss the paper by only an inch, creating a mess to clean up.
Once the odour is in the carpet, the dog will often seek that spot out as its proper ‘place to go’. This makes training the dog to go to the toilet outside even more difficult. Best to suffer a few accidents than to create a hard-to-overcome habit.
Patience, praise and consistency are the keys to any dog training. Elimination training is the first test for you and your dog.
About The Author
Terry King runs Parcel Pets – http://www.pets2home.co.uk/cat–Training-Aids–TRAINING_AIDS.html – a leading UK pet supplies web site and has had pets all his life. He lives with his wife Louise, dog Sam, Cat Sabrina and 5 fish!
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Posted in Training & Tricks | No Comments »
Sunday, November 2nd, 2008
by: Jennifer Jordan
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.
I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.
This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:
Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.
Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.
Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.
Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn’t a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.
Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
About The Author
Jennifer Jordan is the senior editor for http://www.etodoors.com. Someone who changes her mind every five minutes, her house is in a perpetual state of home improvement.
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Posted in Accessories, Health & Fitness, Owning a Dog | No Comments »
Saturday, November 1st, 2008
by: Jennifer Koretsky
The Christmas holidays are fast approaching! While you’re busy decorating and preparing your home for guests, here are a few important tips to keep your dog safe this season.
The Christmas Tree
Tinsel, small ornaments, and ornament hooks are major choking hazards for dogs. It’s best to avoid tinsel altogether and keep small ornaments high on the tree, out of the dog’s reach. Also, make sure there are no stray ornament hooks on the floor!
If your family has a real tree (as opposed to an artificial tree), it’s best to block off the area around the tree with a screen or gate. Many dogs become ill from drinking tree water and ingesting pine needles. Vacuum the area around the tree regularly.
Holiday Guests
It’s exciting to have family and friends over during the holidays—even for your dog! But there are certain precautions you should take when having company over.
Dogs can easily slip out the door when people are continuously going in and out. Make sure your dog is wearing an identification tag with your phone number, even if he is micro-chipped. Not everyone who finds a lost dog knows to have him checked for a micro-chip.
Your guests may adore your dog, but don’t let them give your dog any food without asking. Children especially may want to give the dog a treat—hand them a safe treat and supervise while they give it to the dog. Under no circumstances should your dog be given turkey or chicken bones. They are too small and are a serious choking hazard. As an alternative, buy a marrow bone at the grocery store as a special holiday treat.
Why You Shouldn’t Give Dogs as Gifts
Bringing a new dog into the family is a wonderful thing, especially if you adopt a dog from a shelter. However, giving a dog as a Christmas gift is never a good idea. Regardless of whether the dog is a puppy or an adult, his first few days in your home should be all about him. The holidays, for most families, are too chaotic and busy for a dog to get used to his new environment, and he may become anxious or frightened.
A great idea for families who want to give their children a dog for Christmas is to gift wrap a dog bone. When the child opens it, tell them it’s for the new dog that you’ll be getting in a few weeks. Or you can leave a note from Santa explaining that he didn’t have enough room on his sleigh and will be coming back with the dog. Animal shelters are flooded every January with dogs who were given as Christmas gifts—so January is a great time to adopt a dog who needs a home.
Lastly, it’s always a good idea to have your vet’s phone number posted in a visible spot. Your vet’s office should have someone answering the phone 24/7.
The most important thing to remember, amidst all the chaos of the holidays, is to always know where your dog is and what he’s up to. That way everyone in your home, including the four-legged family members, can have a Merry Christmas.
Copyright (c) 2007 Jennifer Koretsky
About The Author
Jennifer Koretsky
luvmutt.com is a website dedicated to mixed breed dogs and the people who love them. Meet a new dog every day at http://www.luvmutt.com.
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Posted in Health & Fitness, Owning a Dog | No Comments »
Tuesday, October 14th, 2008
This was sent to me via email. I thought it was cute enough to post.
——
A farmer had some puppies he needed to sell. He painted a sign advertising the 4 pups. And set about nailing it to a post on the edge of his yard.
As he was driving the last nail into the post, he felt a tug on his overalls. He looked down into the eyes of little boy.
‘Mister,’ he said, ‘I want to buy one of your puppies.’
‘Well,’ said the farmer, As he rubbed the sweat off the back of his neck, ‘These puppies come from fine parents and cost a good deal of money.’
The boy dropped his head for a moment. Then reaching deep into his pocket, he pulled out a handful of change and held it up to the farmer.
‘I’ve got thirty-nine cents. Is that enough to take a look?’
‘Sure,’ said the farmer. And with that he let out a whistle.
‘Here, Dolly!’ he called.
Out from the doghouse and down the ramp ran Dolly followed by four little balls of fur.
The little boy pressed his face against the chain link fence. His eyes danced with delight. As the dogs made their way to the fence, The little boy noticed something else stirring inside the doghouse.
Slowly another little ball appeared, this one noticeably smaller. Down the ramp it slid. Then in a somewhat awkward manner, the little pup began hobbling toward the others, doing its best to catch up….
‘I want that one,’ the little boy said, pointing to the runt.
The farmer knelt down at the boy’s side and said, ‘Son, you don’t want that puppy. He will never be able to run and play with you like these other dogs would.’
With that the little boy stepped back from the fence, reached down, and began rolling up one leg of his trousers. In doing so he revealed a steel brace running down both sides of his leg attaching itself to a specially made shoe.
Looking back up at the farmer, he said, ‘You see sir, I don’t run too well myself, And he will need someone who understands.’
With tears in his eyes, the farmer reached down and picked up the little pup.Holding it carefully handed it to the little boy.
‘How much?’ asked the little boy.
‘No charge,’ answered the farmer, ‘There’s no charge for love.’
The world is full of people who need someone who understands ..
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Posted in Humor | No Comments »
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