Thursday, October 2nd, 2008
by: Miss Debra Rae
If your dog has separation anxiety you’ll know by their destructive, obsessive and or anxious behavior. Typically the unwanted behavior(s) begin 10-45 minutes after their human has left the home and include:
1. Excessive barking or howling
2. Crying continually
3. Digging and scratching at doors or windows
4. Urinating or defecating on themselves in inappropriate places due to stress
5. General hysterical behavior
These behaviors typically surface when a traumatic change (from your dog’s point of view) has occurred such as moving to a new home, the loss or addition of a family member whether it be human or canine, after a vacation when you and your dog have spent a lot of time together, after a stay at a boarding facility or shelter (doggie jail) or if their human is working long hours and is absent for extended periods of time.
Even though it’s not fully understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and others do not, it’s clear your dog is having some sort of severe panic response to your absence. Punishing your dog for having a panic response/separation anxiety will only exacerbate an already difficult issue. You need to show your dog through training that being alone is not a threat to their safety.
Please read this information in it’s entirety before making any decisions or beginning any training and/or a de-sensitization process. You must first determine the level of your dog’s panic response before you take any action.
First, don’t get another dog to help your first dog with separation anxiety. This will not solve the problem because the anxiety is related to their human’s absence not loneliness. Don’t crate an anxiety ridden dog. This could worsen their condition. Your dog may also injure themselves attempting to escape the crate. They may howl, urinate and defecate due to their high stress level. Also, simply going to a dog obedience class will not solve the problem of separation anxiety. Training your dog is highly recommended, however it’s not a solution for your dog’s panic response.
Be certain your dog is experiencing separation anxiety by answering the following questions. If four or more answers are yes, re-conditioning is recommended.
1. Your dog detests spending time alone outside, won’t go outside without you.
2. The undesirable behavior/panic response occurs only when they’re left alone (this can be 10 minutes or several hours).
3. Your dog is overly excited, depressed or frantic while you prepare to leave.
4. Your dog follows you like a shadow from room to room when you’re at home.
5. When you arrive home, your dog is close to hysterical/frenzied when they’re greeting you.
The following method(s) are quite useful for minor cases of separation anxiety. For more acute cases, use these training methods along with the desensitization process presented later in this article.
1. When you arrive home be very calm, cool and collected. Wait 2-5 minutes before you greet and pet your dog. This will be difficult for you at first so be strong. When you do greet your dog, have a very calm monotone voice so as to add to their excitement.
2. When you leave your dog, give them a t-shirt or other piece of clothing that you’ve worn recently (the smellier the better).
3. Train your dog to know you’ll be back with a specific word or pair of words. You must use the exact same word(s) every time you leave to help assure your canine you’re coming back.
To begin training for minor cases of separation anxiety chose the word(s) you’ll be using to let your dog know you’re coming back. Make it simple like “I’ll be back” or “I’m coming home”. Next, do something simple like take out the garbage or get the mail. Before exiting, use your cue words and go out the door. At first, only be gone for very short periods of time. This is to convince your dog that you’re coming back very soon (3-5 minutes). You can also turn on the television, radio or a CD plus give them a chew toy along with the cue words to re-direct/re-focus them on something other than their anxiety.
This type of training may take only 5 times to work or it may take 25 times. Set aside time on a day off to help your dog learn that being along is not a threat to their safety. Be sure to use the same word cues and body language every time. Dogs learn through association and classic conditioning, so if you trained them with a toy, the radio and cue words “I’ll be back,” do that every single time and soon your dog will completely understand the routine thereby eliminating or at least significantly reducing their stress response.
Another way to begin work on your dog’s minor panic response is to train them to sit-stay or down-stay with positive reinforcement (this assumes your dog already knows sit or down). Choose either the sit-stay or down-stay and stick with it. Going back and forth will only confuse your dog about what you want. First, use the command “sit” or “down” (whichever one you’ve chosen). Reward your dog with a treat, belly rub or a gentle pat on the head. Next, use the command “stay” and take one step back. Reward your dog. Next, use your command “sit” or “down” and then “stay”. Take 2 steps back. Reward your dog for staying.
Continue this process until you’ve exited the room (this may take 4 steps or 10 steps). If your dog gets up from their sitting or lying down position, start again from where they faltered. Don’t punish your dog for getting up. Just go back to where there was success and build from there. Your ultimate goal is to be able to get up and go into another room (like the kitchen or bathroom) without your dog having a panic response. Be sure to use the exact same command and body language every time so your dog can make the association. Work with them for 10-15 minute intervals every day or a few times a day. Soon your dog won’t budge when you get up, use your command and leave the room.
For more acute case of separation anxiety, a systematic process is required. This takes time, effort and patience. You’re training your dog to be alright with being alone when they are completely freaked out about being alone. Go slow and celebrate successes.
There are several steps to this de-sensitization process and go as follows:
NOTE: During this process, be acutely aware of your dog’s behavior. If they begin to exhibit the panic response, go back a step and repeat it until your dog is calm. If you try to move through the steps too fast, they will not work and could worsen your dog’s separation anxiety.
• Step 1: Behave as if you’re getting ready to leave by gathering items such as your shoes, keys, coat, brief case, purse. Instead of heading out the door, go sit on the couch or in a chair and put your stuff down like you’re going to read or watch television. Repeat this process until your dog no longer exhibits their panic response. This could take 5 times or 50 times depending on the severity of your dog’s anxiety.
• Step 2: Repeat step 1 except instead of sitting down on the couch or chair, go to the door you normally enter/exit from, open it and then go sit down. Repeat this process until your dog no longer exhibits anxiety.
• Step 3: Repeat step 1 and instead of sitting down, go to the exit/entry door, open it, step outside (leaving the door open), immediately return and then go sit down. Repeat as many times as necessary to squash your dog’s panic response.
• Step 4: Repeat step 3 and instead of leaving the door open, close the door for 1-2 seconds then come back in and go sit down. Repeat as many times as needed until your dog is calm.
• Step 5: Repeat step 4 and instead of having the door closed for 1-2 seconds, leave it closed for 10 seconds then come back in a sit down. Repeat until there is no panic response from your dog.
• Step 6: Once your dog can tolerate having a door separating them from you for 10-20 seconds, begin using your training phrase like “I’ll be back” or “I’m coming back” then gather your stuff, go out the door and close it for 1 -2 minutes, come back very calmly and greet your dog quietly. As long as there are no signs of distress, repeat this step while gradually increasing from 1-2 minutes to 3-4, 5-6, etc. Do this up to 10 minutes. Take however long it takes. Speed is not the goal. No panic response is the goal. Go slow.
• Step 7: Once your dog can tolerate 10 minutes of separation without having a panic response, you can now leave for a short period of time – 30 to 60 minutes. Be sure to use the exact same cue(s) you’ve chosen (I’ll be back, I’m coming home, radio on, etc.) when you leave. Once you return, greet your dog calmly and in a monotone voice.
• Step 8: While training, it’s best to combine short periods of separation (30-60 minutes) with very short periods of separation (3- 10 minutes). Be certain you use your command cue(s) every time. Stagger these separation times (1 for 10 minutes and then an hour later leave for 60 minutes). This helps to solidify within your dog that you are coming back every time.
So now your dog is able to tolerate 60-90 minutes of separation without having a panic response. This is a dramatic improvement from where you both started. Typically this means that your dog is able to handle being alone for longer than 90 minutes and often several hours. Every dog is different and some may be able to handle 1 ½ hours but not more than 2 while others handle several hours like a super star. Be patient with your dog and continue the training until they’re comfortable being separated from you. The length of time it takes to de-sensitize your dog is dependent on how acute their anxiety was from the beginning. This will take time so there’s no need to rush. If you try and push your dog into a step they’re not ready to handle they’ll panic so simply back up a step. If you push to hard, all your work has just been blown away and you need to start over.
In some extreme cases, anti-anxiety medication may be needed for the short term. This can be very helpful in taking the edge off of your dog’s panic response so successful training can begin. Prescription canine anti-anxiety medications can be dispensed by your veterinarian and are very inexpensive. There are also many natural anti-anxiety remedies available. Another short term alternative is to leave your dog with a friend, family member, take them to work with you for ½ a day or find a doggie day care.
Whatever you do, make sure it’s the very best for your cuddly canine companion. They live to please their human and showing them how to do this is rewarding beyond words. If you have questions, concerns or think your dog needs anti-anxiety medication, consult with your veterinarian.
About The Author
Miss Debra Rae
After working in Veterinary clinics and animal emergency hospitals, Miss Rae began writing about dogs and how they enrich our lives. Visit http://www.goodpoopy.com for all your dog’s needs from nutrition to dog emergencies and more.
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Thursday, August 21st, 2008
by Susie Aga
I would like to share some of my experiences with dogs who are fearful or phobic. First of all there is a difference between fears and phobias. Fears can be worked with and possibly get better but phobias can not be cured they can only be managed.
Phobias often cause dogs to react with irrational behaviors. Canine fears and phobias vein out to feed so many more underlying behavioral issues. Most of the time fears stems from lack of socialization as puppies. Phobias develop from some sort of trauma when the puppy was very young and then the fear becomes a learned behavior and finally the fear turns in to a phobia. Traumatic experiences for an adult dog can also instill phobias.
Most common fears are; fears of men, other dogs, loud noises, strange objects, children or it can be anything they were not exposed to as a puppy.
The most common phobias are thunder, fire crackers, car travel and gun shots. The uncommon types of Phobias are other dogs, odors example: veterinary hospitals; then phobias of certain people such as impaired individual’s example: wheel chairs, crutches and prosthetic limbs.
The best treatment for these types of behaviors is desensitization. The process is to start applying a very weak stimulus; then gradually increasing the strength. For example a phobia or fear of gun shots would be to desensitize them to the sound by starting the sound off at a distance and gradually approach the dog. You can even play a tape recording of gunshots at a low volume and then graduate to increased loudness. You can find tapes of thunder and other sounds to help desensitize your dog to their fears or phobias.
Another way of desensitizing is counter conditioning. The process for counter conditioning is to ask a dog to do an obedience command for example; a down stay then start the stimuli very weak and reward the dog with food for maintaining the down stay. Only reward the dog for the desired behavior. If a dog is doing one behavior then they can not do the undesirable behavior at the same time. Increase the stimuli slowly and do consistent exercises to help conquer the fear.
Fears usually develop from lack of socialization as a puppy. If a dog is not exposed to different sounds, environments and people it is easy for them to have a fear of the unknown. After your dog is immunized you should do an exercise.
Three called “777”. The exercise is slowly exposing your puppy to a desired object or person. Everything is paired with positive motivation. Whether it is food or toys or any other thing that is a positive motivator for your dog.
You have to introduce your dog to 7 size humans, 7 different surfaces, 7 different environments and 7 sounds at different levels of loudness.
The first “7” is seven different size humans for example; have a small child just walk pass the puppy at a distance and toss some food at the puppy and walk on. Then again repeat. By the time the child is close enough to meet the puppy it will have paired a child with good things. Pairing the child with food makes the child more desirable.
The second “7” is try to get your puppy on 7 different surfaces. If your puppy is not socialized to sand then at age two when you visit the beach and it steps on this hot sinking surface it may think it is on a different planet and then might exhibit unwanted behavior. If your dog has never gone to the bathroom on anything but grass then if you are in the desert you will have a problem. Besides having a dog get used to different surfaces I also make them eliminate on different surfaces [except concrete or any flooring]. The reason for that is a dog should be able to eliminate on bark, pine straw, sand, mud etc. so when you’re traveling your dog will eliminate on whatever surface is around. This will keep you from having to travel with pine straw or a square of grass. Some dogs will imprint on one type of surface and only eliminate on that surface.
The third set of “7” is different environments. I take puppies [once fully emmunized] to warehouses, dog parks, soccer games and other environments. If a dog is well-socialized to change and different environments then in the future when they experience these environment it becomes no big deal. When I take my dog or puppy to a new environment I do it slowly. When the dog is comfortable then I will move forward in to the environment.
I pair new places with good treats and then once they are fully comfortable in the environment, I fade the food out and always keep the praise coming.
The fourth “7” is sound desensitization. Puppies and dogs who live inside all the time might build a fear to normal everyday sounds. For example; traffic noises, horns, roller bladers, skate boards etc… To start the process of sound desensitization, I drop a book 2 inches off the floor and toss my dog/puppy a treat. Then I raise the book a little more and repeat till I am dropping the book from 5 feet high. By then the puppy will associate the sound with a reward. This exercise is done slowly and consistently. I raise the level of sounds and add in different sounds. I start with dull noises like books. Then I go to tin sounding noises like dropping cans. I will graduate to a baking sheet which can get quite loud when it is dropped from 5 feet in the air. By the time you get these objects to 5 feet in the air your dog sound be getting socialized to sounds and understand that loud noises produces positive rewards.
Susie Aga, Atlanta Dog Trainer
Susie is a Certified Canine Behavior & Training Specialist and a member in good standing with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She has four rescue dogs and donates much of her time and services to Rescue Organizations, along with hosting The Animal Hour Radio Show which can be heard through her site. Susie is a Turner Brocasting Pet Expert.
Article Source: Lady Pens
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Sunday, August 17th, 2008
by Rebecca Prescott
Dogs can get allergies for a variety of reasons, but there are a few culprits that lead to a state of a weakened immune system. Once a dog has a weakened immune system, he may start having allergic reactions to things that would not normally bother a healthy, strong dog. And he may develop a serious autoimmune problem like inflammatory bowel disease or hyperthyroidism.
According to Richard Pitcairn, these things may lead to a dog developing a weakened immune system:
* combination injections used a lot
* excessive use of cortisone drugs
* commercial dog food diets
The latter is an interesting point, as even in miler cases of allergy, dogs may be allergic to some of the commercial foods we feed them. He suggests switching to a special healing diet, made from food you prepare yourself, for about 2 or 3 months. If after this time there is no improvement, then it is safe to safe that food is not causing the allergy. Dr Pitcairn’s recommended allergy diet includes grains like brown rice, bone meal, meat, and vitamins.
Once the dog has been on this diet for a few months, you can start introducing foods that he used to eat, gradually. It’s best to introduce the foods one at a time, so you have a chance to see whether a reaction occurs after he eats it. Once a food, or ingredient has been identified, the option exists to find a good quality dog food that doesn’t contain those ingredients. There exist special foods that are formulated for dogs with skin conditions, and these might be more suitable.
Foods are not the only substances that can trigger an allergy however. Your dog may be allergic to:
* chlorine or other household chemical agents
* cleaning chemicals, either in your house or yard
* gases released from chemicals in our furniture or buildings
* synthetic carpets
* plastic food bowls
* some types of grass or plants
* regular dog care products like heartworm or flea products
* flea bites
The symptoms of a dog suffering from an allergy could be one or more of the following:
* itchy skin
* skin eruptions (especially at the base of the tail and on the lower part of his back)
* inflamed ears
* too much licking of the front feet
* problems in the digestive tract including gas, gurgling of the stomach, loose stools or diarrhea
* inflammation of the toes
* his rear end is irritated
* licking and dragging his rear end on the floor
References: Dr Pitcairn, Complete Guide To Natural Health For Dogs And Cats
If you’re interested in feeding your dog a natural diet, learn about dogs and carbohydrates here.
Lady Pens
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Monday, August 11th, 2008
At first glance, dog tricks seem to be more like parlor tricks than anything useful. But the truth is quite the contrary; in fact, dog tricks promote very healthy and obedient behavior amongst dogs. The goal is to teach a dog five basic tricks: stay, come, sit, heel, and leave alone.
Teach A Dog The Trick Of Stay
Stay is one of the best dog tricks that can counteract bad behavior. Instead of a muddy dog making tracks throughout the house, why not teach it to stay on command, and save yourself the frustration of cleaning?
Training a dog to stay can be somewhat difficult. Reward the dog when you declare Stay, and the dog doesn’t move towards you. Eventually, the dog will learn through association of benefit that Stay means to stay put until further command.
Teach A Dog The Trick Of Come
Come is a rather easy command to teach, mostly because dogs can be curious creatures. Every time you say Come and make a gesture, they usually perform this task on their own. But to really engrave it into the dog’s mind, a treat should be given upon successful completion.
This command is very useful when a dog becomes distracted and is pondering chasing a rabbit, for instance. Instead of chasing the dog all over town (and the rabbit, coincidentally), try stating Come! with a firm voice you’ll be surprised at the results.
Teach A Dog The Trick Of Sit
Stay is another command similar to stay, although it is better in most cases. Instead of a dog standing up ready to move as soon as the owner gets out of site, the dog is obediently sitting on the floor waiting for the next command.
This command can be taught much like stay in the sense that the dog should be rewarded upon successfully staying. But in this case, the dog must also be sitting. Helping the dog into a sitting position is often required in this scenario.
Teach A Dog The Trick Of Heel
Heel is a difficult command to teach, since it attempts to teach a dog a learned behavior when they are at their most obnoxious and rambunctious state of mind. When they are tugging at their leash ready to run free, simply saying heel would be a great way to get things under control!
This command can be taught by saying the command multiple times, until the dog subsides. Upon submission, give the dog a treat to reward the submission. Hopefully, the word heel will become a word in both the dog’s and owner’s vocabulary with good practice.
Teach A Dog The Trick Of Leave Alone
This command is always the most fun to teach. Simply put an appetizing object in front of a dog, say leave alone and then offer the dog another treat that is bigger or better in some shape or form. Eventually the dog will realize that a bigger or better treat can be had if it is waited for after hearing the words leave alone.
Final Thoughts On Dog Training
Dog training is a lot of fun if the right methods are put into use. These methods will enable for both bonding between owner and dog, and will teach great behavioral character for dogs. Keep in mind that only positive reinforcement should be used as negative reinforcement can worsen behavior problems.
Teach your Dog Tricks and get do information at our Dog Tricks Training Forum.
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Monday, August 11th, 2008
Last year, in late September, we went into a pet store (I know.. I know.. really, I do..) and they happened to have 2 italian greyhounds (male and female).
I was proudly “owned” by an 8 year old whippet (Bean) and a 4 year old, recently adopted, australian shepherd (Sky).. but I’d recently been thinking the italian greyhound would be a nice dog.. small, small enough to snuggle on my lap, small enough to pick up and carry as well as being loving and attentive.. While both our older dogs love to be loved on, neither are much in the way of long-term couch (or bed) snuggling. At the same time, I was dealing with a life-long disease (crohn’s) and as a result dealing, with depression.. having a dog to snuggle with was therapy for me.
Back to the pet store visit… this little boy IG (I happened to be interested specifically in the boy, as I’d read how much more cuddly they were then female – though, now I’m not sure I agree with that assumption) stretched his skinny little blue and white body across one of our boys laps and my heart swelled.
Over the course of a week, my husband and I discussed whether adding another dog to our family, along with the source of the dog (pet store) was a good idea. In the end, the little blue won out and we went back to get him.
He’s a lovely “biggy” iggy – named Enzo, now over a year old and weighing around 16 pounds.. he’s shy around people, loving, playful, and such a little comedian. I cannot imagine life without my little guy. He’s brought so much energy to our doggy family, and while many IG’s tend to follow their person around – sometimes to the point of no privacy – my guy is a little more independent.. but he’s a good snuggler all the same.
This July, we found a breeder who had a lovely little fawn and white female IG… and, it was love at first site. When I picked our little girl up, she looked at me, as if to say “finally, there you are”… she immediately bonded to me – I am Mom. She loves everyone in our house (from the 4 & 7 year old boys, to the teen girls, the other dogs and dad too).. but I.am.Mom. My husband says how, with all the dogs we’ve ever owned, and while I’ve always been “mom” to them all, he’s never seen one bond to me as quickly and so completely, as our little Ella Roo did..
And.. if I thought Enzo was just the right dog breed for me.. I quickly found in Ella, the rest of the package.. I love how she follows me around, she’ll sit and watch me as I get ready for work, she bounds into the bed to dive under the covers for some warm snuggling.. she sassy and playful, a little love and won’t put up with anything from the other dogs, or the kids.
Ahhhh… life is sweet..
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